Onacheaptrip Everest Base Camp trek

Heaven on Earth – Everest Base Camp

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Duration:-16 days
My Expenditure: – Around  INR 35,000 (Pune to Pune)
Tour packages will be somewhere around  INR 80,000 (Kathmandu to Kathmandu)!!!!!

 Everest Base camp trek is not a joke, at least not in usual sense.Just because you are not putting a foot on Mount Everest, do not think that the trek to Everest Base Camp (EBC) is a facile undertaking. It’s so tough that at times you question own sanity and why you ever decided to do it. But at the same time, you look at the scenery that’s so stunning.It changes from lush green farmland, dense forest and crystal clear water rivers to barren land as you climb higher – that you realize it was a stupendous decision. It’s one of the hardest physical and mental challenges you will ever face in your life but on reaching to base camp will turn into the gratifying moment.

Mt everest Everest Base Camp trek

Mt Everest (8848 m)

It all started somewhere in mid-Jan 16 when I started planning for the Everest base camp trek, all the tour packages were overpriced. Eventually, I decided to do the trek unaided.I started exploring all the do about’s for the trek.After a lot of google search, I finally made my itinerary for the trip and started buying all the necessary gears required for the trek.Also, a prior booking of flight is needed from Kathmandu to Lukla.The actual trekking starts from Lukla airport.For flight booking visit Tara Air.

As the trek is not an easy undertaking, you need to keep yourself physically fit.I started cycling to the office, ran into few marathons and trekked few small peaks of Maharashtra in order to build up good stamina.

7th April – Finally the day arrived and I along with my 3 friends was ready to depart for one of the most adventurous trips of our life.We took a flight from Pune to Delhi and then a train from Delhi to Gorakhpur.For train availability check IRCTC.

Gorakhpur railway station India

Gorakhpur railway station

The platform at Gorakhpur is the longest platform in the world. From Gorakhpur, the cheapest way to reach sonauli border is to catch a local to nautanwa and then a shared auto to sonauli. Sonauli is  India/Nepal border crossing.After crossing the border, firstly we exchanged our INR to NPR and then took a taxi to reach Kathmandu. It’s about 4-5 hour drive from the border.

India Nepal border Everest Base Camp trek

Sanouli border crossing

Nepali currency Everest Base Camp trek

INR to NPR

KATHMANDU How best to describe this crazy city?Chaotic, dirty, loud, but in many ways, beautiful.We stayed in the Thamel neighborhood of Kathmandu, a very popular backpacker area of the city.Many other people staying here are preparing for their Himalayan trekking adventures.This is a great place to buy trekking gear at very cheap prices.Experience nightlife in Thamel as there are a hell lot of pubs and bars, almost the same kind of feeling you experience in Goa.To read more on Kathmandu refer Wikipedia.

Cute Kid nepal

Cute Kid of Nepal

Places of Interest: –Pashupatinath Temple, Thamel chowk, Durbar square, Boudhanath stupa. Most of the places are damaged due to severe earthquake.Renovation work is under progress.

Durbar Square Kathmandu

Durbar Square

Day 1 – Kathmandu-Lukla-chumoa(2650m)

The actual Everest Base Camp trek starts from Lukla after a flight into the world’s most dangerous airport.Leaving from Kathmandu airport, you’ll brave an early morning flight to Lukla. It’s a small aircraft with seating capacity as low as 16 and one of the scariest flight you will ever take.The pilots have years of experience and seeing them eating chakna stuff during the flight made me feel more comfortable.Try to sit on the left side of the plane for some spectacular views of the Himalayas.This was the most beautiful scenery I’ve ever seen on a flight.

Highest peak Everest Base Camp trek

Himalayan range as seen from Flight

After a 40 min of flight, we landed on to Lukla airport -world’s most dangerous airport.The runway is mere 500 meter and is built on a slant to help slow on landing and speed up on take off.The end of the runway is either cliff or mountainside.

Tara airways Everest Base Camp trek

Kathmandu-Lukla Tara Air Flight

Lukla airport 2880 m Everest Base Camp trek

Lukla airport (2845m) and Runway is 527 m

After exploring Lukla for a couple of hours, we headed for Phakding.It takes around 2-3 hours to reach Phakding and the trail is mostly downhill.We were enriched with some breathtaking views all along the trail which added to our excitement and apparently we decided to trek further.

Gas Cylinders on Back Everest Base Camp trek

Sometimes Earning is Tough

Dudh kosi river Everest Base Camp trek

Beautiful Dudh Koshi River

Trekking for about an hour, we reached Chumoa where you need to obtain a mandatory Trekkers’ Information Management Systems (TIMS card).The guy working at TIMS office was very friendly and he suggested us to stay at his lodge as it already started getting darker.

If you need more info you can refer Trekker’s Information Management System website.

suspension Bridges Everest Base Camp trek

One of the many suspension bridges en-route

Day 2 – Chumoa to Namche Bazaar(3440 m)~5-6 hours of hiking

After having breakfast we headed for Namche. Near about 20 min walk from Chumoa, we arrived at Sagarmatha national Park entrance permit office from where you need to obtain permits to go further beyond.

For more details on entry fees, you can refer official tourism website for Nepal.

At 800 meter of elevation gain, it is one of the steepest days and crossing the high suspension bridges is exhilarating.Those who have watched the 2015 Everest movie will recognize these suspension bridges. It is the higher of the two bridges that are operational.

On route Namche Everest Base Camp trek

The higher suspension bridge is operational

On the way to Namche bazaar, we got to witness the first view of a highest physical structure on planet earth-Mt. Everest (8848m)

 first view mount everest base camp trek

Mt Everest (8848 meter) -Highest physical structure on planet earth

After a tiring 2 hours of only uphill trek, we finally made it to Namche Bazaar, one of the larger villages in the Khumbu region.It’s where trekkers and tourists refuel and get last minute gear.

trekkers at Everest Base Camp trek

Trekkers have their own ways 

For the first time, hikers experience the altitude of around 10000 feet.It is highly advised to spend a rest day here to acclimatize our body for such high altitude. Avoiding acclimatization may lead to signs of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) like dizziness, nausea, breathing problems, headache or fatigue.Also, you would hear from many people that hike high, sleep low, mean you hike to a higher elevation, then return to sleep at a lower one.

Namche Bazaar Everest Base Camp trek

An Evening view of Namche Bazaar

namche lodge Everest Base Camp trek

Lodge dining room with Chimney  

Day 3 – Namche Bazaar to Tengboche (3860 m)~4-5 hours of hiking

As we were short of days for the whole trek, we skipped the rest day and headed for Tengboche the following morning.The first half of the walk is fairly simple.On the way you come across superb views of Mt. Nuptse, Mt. Lhotse, Mt. Ama Dablam and close up view of Thamserku. After a tiring hike of 4-5 hours finally, we reached Tengboche.

on way tyengboche Everest Base Camp trek

 In Route Tengboche

superman at Everest Base Camp trek

Salute to this guy almost 150 kg at back on such a terrain and low altitude

Tengboche is a midway station on the trail to the base camp.In the village is an important Buddhist monastery- Tengboche Monastery, which is the largest gompa in the Khumbu region.Lodge stay at Tengboche was awesome as the owner’s son was huge Bollywood fan and he was very happy to serve us.Charging a phone here would cost around 200 bucks and he didn’t ask for a single penny.Bhakthi (owner’s son)-we love your kind nature boy and will remember you for entire life.

Tyengboche Everest Base Camp trek

Best location to relax and a tea could be icing on the cake

Day 4 -Tengboche to Pheriche (4243m)~ 4-5 hours of hiking

Now as we proceed further up the trail, grassy lands now started turning into barren land with snow everywhere.Trekking now starts becoming more tougher and tougher with decreasing oxygen levels.Our plans for today was to make it to Lobuche but with plummeting strength levels we decided to hang our boots at Pheriche itself.

tired Everest Base Camp trek

Sit back and relax

It was an amazing evening at Pheriche as we experienced the first snowfall of our trek.

pheriche Everest Base Camp trek

Snow all around at Pheriche

Day 5 – Pheriche to Lobuche  (5164 m)~4-5 hours of trekking

Trek from Pheriche to Lobuche is not that steep but high altitude and low oxygen start taking a toll on your body.I felt a severe headache and as a safety measure took Diamox  -a medicine to diagnose from altitude sickness.After a tough hiking for near about 4 hours, we reached Lobuche.

other treker Everest Base Camp trek

You make friends all the way

Day 6 – Lobuche to Gorakshep(5164m) and evening hike to Kalapathar (5545 m)

We started very early in the morning as it was a long trekking day going ahead.After hiking for 2 hours we arrived at Gorakshep. Reaching Gorakshep is an achievement in itself.It’s the last village before Basecamp, where you can find lodges to stay.A Dal Bhat would cost 750 NPR here and a water bottle would be around 300 NPR.

Bill gorakshep Everest Base Camp trek

A milk tea 150 bucks only

gorakshep Everest Base Camp trek

Gorakshep-last village before Everest Base Camp

After having breakfast, we decided to hike to Kalapathar. Kalapathar is the highest peak you can scale on an EBC trek.From Kalapathar top, you can witness stunning view of sunset when plummeting sun rays falls on Everest summit giving it an orange color. But you need to be lucky for such view and pray for the weather to be clear which was not in our case.It was much to my disappointment after trekking so hard for 4 hours.I decided to trek Kalapathar again early morning to have a view of sunrise.

Kalapathar Everest Base Camp trek

Kalapathar Top -5545 meter

Day 7 – Hike to Kalapathar (5545m) and then to Everest Base Camp (5348m)

I started around 4 am with my head torch.It was extremely dark and chilly out there. After a difficult 3 hours of trek all uphill, I reached the top of Kalapathar. It was an astonishing view of Everest from there and cannot be described in words.People won’t think of doing Kalapathar once as its that tough at such altitude and depleting oxygen level and doing it twice made be feel gigantic.

Mt everest Everest Base Camp trek

Mt Everest (8848 m) as seen from Kalapathar

After coming back from kalapathar, it was time to fulfill one of my dreams a final stretch from Gorakshep to Everest Base camp.We started somewhere around 11 and made it to Basecamp around 1:30.A scream of relief came out.We couldn’t believe we finally made it. We were so proud of what we’ve just accomplished.We couldn’t have done it without pushing ourselves.Our Everest dream finally came true.

Yellow specks appeared on the horizon, which were the climber’s tents who were attempting summit this year.They stay here at base camp for around 6 weeks to acclimatize to such high altitude.

Everest base camp

Everest Base camp

There were few Indian Army tents at Everest Base Camp and around 15 of army guys were planning for the summit this year.Meeting them was one of the best feelings I ever had in my life.They were so humble in nature.They offered us to lunch at their tents and guess what we got chapati after so long.They gave us some chocolates, juice, biscuits and medicine.It was an amazing time spent with the army and after wishing them good luck for the summit, we headed back towards Gorakshep.

Indian army Everest Base Camp trek

With Indian army at Everest Base Camp

Day 8 – Gorakshep to Dzongla (4843 m)~6-7 hours trek

Most of the trekkers after reaching Base camp follow the same trail all the way back to Lukla. But we planned to do one of the passes known as Chola Pass from which further west is  Gokyo. It took five hours and we were in Dzongla.At Dzongla there is really nothing more than a yak grazing place with two small lodges and limited camping.But the surrounding views are breathtaking.

Thagnag Everest Base Camp trek

Dzongla at an altitude of 4843 meter

Day 9 -Dzongla -Chola Pass to Dragnag (5025 m)~ 5-6 hrs trek

We woke up this morning to see Dzongla was covered in snow, not the best conditions for crossing the Cho La Pass. I was a little bit nervous as high mountain passes are not something to be taken lightly.At 5420 meter the Chola pass can be challenging to get through and extremely dangerous in poor weather.After trekking a huge mountain finally, there it was – a giant glacier.The sun gleamed off the snow and ice.It was an astonishing view.

chola pass Everest Base Camp trek

Chola Pass (5420 meters)

We trekked further down west for about an hour and a half and reached Dragnag. Our plan for today was to make it to Gokyo but the weather had some other thoughts.It started snowing heavily and we had to end our day at a lodge in Dragnag.

chola pass route Everest Base Camp trek

In Route Chola Pass

snowfall Everest Base Camp trek

Snowfall at Dragnag

Day 10- Dragnag to Gokyo(4750m) and then to Phortse Thanga(3600m)~8-10 hours

We started the very early morning with a view to trek Gokyo Ri.The trail from Dragnag to Gokyo is very confusing and we lost our way.Also, there was no one around whom we could ask for the correct trail.The lost trail didn’t lead to any disappointment as we got some astonishing views of sunrise on snow-capped mountains.Later when I checked on gmaps to find out where exactly we were lost, I was amazed to see it was somewhere close to china border.Maybe just a few mountains were separating Nepal and china border there.

on route gokyo Everest Base Camp trek

Gokyo route Everese Base Camp trek

Finally, after getting strayed for around 3 hours or so, we found out the correct trail that leads to Gokyo.On the way, few of the mountains were horrifying as huge stone were continuously tumbling.Luckily we were unhurt and made it to Gokyo. We were greeted with a splendid view of Gokyo lake.Sadly we couldn’t make it to Gokyo Ri due to the lost time.

gokyo lake Everest Base Camp trek

 Gokyo Lake-Water is so crystal clear

Gokyo lake Everest Base Camp trek

Gokyo Lake Everest Base Camp Trek

After witnessing some stunning and thrilling views at Gokyo, it was now time to start descending all the way to Lukla with 2 more days left.We didn’t have a set itinerary on how long the descent would be. We just wanted to push through the fastest we could.

Day 11 – Phortse Thanga to Chumoa ~5-6 hours of trekking

The walks were becoming more enjoyable with every inch we were descending.It was much warmer and oxygen level was up to necessity.Also after trekking so hard at such altitude, trekking down seems to be a piece of cake.

nepali kids Everest Base Camp trek

Cute Nepali Kids

Day 12 – Chumoa to Lukla ~5-6 hours of trekking

It was the last day of our trekking.We were enjoying each and every moment on the trail and feeling accomplished.The fatigue, headaches and general feeling of being unwell were gone. 

hard life for kid Everest Base Camp trek

That’s how different is life for some kids

Day 13 -Lukla to Kathmandu

We were up early morning and waited at the airport.After security check, we boarded to same exciting Tara Airways Flight.And 45 minutes later, we finally arrive back in Kathmandu, bringing back with us triumphant moments and photographic memories.

Reaching Everest Base Camp will forever be one of the greatest achievements of my life

Everest Base Camp trek route

Everest Base Camp Trek Route

Do you have a place that you visited that was so beautiful ?? For me, it’s the Himalayas.Not many people can say that they have stood half way towards the top of the world and if I can do it, maybe you can.The Everest Base Camp trek is incredible and the experience of a lifetime. I recommend it to anyone looking to challenge themselves physically and mentally.

For those of you considering doing the Everest Base Camp trek, hopefully, this post has inspired you to sign up for this epic adventure.I really hope you’ve enjoyed reading this blog as much as I’ve enjoyed writing it.

 

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35 thoughts on “Heaven on Earth – Everest Base Camp

  1. I read your blog. My son is interested to take up this similar challenge. Please guide. You have mentioned that things were very difficult. Could you be specific and define the kind / level and solution of the difficulties. Also define specifically the precautions and dangers. Regards. God bless you.

    1. Thanks for reading my blogs.Hope you are liking them.it could be a lifetime experience for your son to go out there and enjoy the nature.As such there is nothing very difficult.Just he needs to be at a good fitness level by regular workouts, running and hiking some nearby mountains.Just one precaution do not rush through the trek, respect the mountains and they will take care of you.For more details, feel free to call at 8007150099.

  2. I’m soooo much amazed bro. very nice blog Abhishek. It’s very nicely narrated by you and photography is Awesome.

    Looking forward to reading your upcoming blogs…

  3. Hi Abhishek … Very Well written and narrated experience of yours. The photos which you have posted are mesmerizing. Some Inspiration for the people who dream of climbing the highest Peak Everest. Hoping to see many more to come from your end.

  4. Awsumm post….Vey nicely written.. Its very nice to hear the challenges you faced and how you overcome the same. By seeing pics n d description you gave it reminded me of the Everest serial which was there an year back on Zee….Its really hard to earn a single piece of bite for them ..they have to face the challenges daily just win d bread..you summarized your journey along with beauty of Himalayas very well..Indeed mother nature is awesome..you just have to look around to see the beauty 🙂 🙂

  5. I can’t tell you how much I envy you! You are a true traveller and I am glad that you have started to pen down your experience. What an anazing experice it would have been. I will some day do this and I know whom to get hold of for details. This ia very informative. Keep writing, I know there is more to come.
    Wish you luck!

  6. Well written and well expressed… Looking forward to read more of your blogs… All the best for new journeys!!! Have fun…

  7. This is really cool brother. We dream, we think, we plan, But you acted and action is something that lets dream come true.

    Fabulous story and great pics indeed.

    Best luck for future endevours too.

  8. Wow Abhishek Blog is a very interesting and photos you have added are really awesome everyone thinks of climbing it but very few of them work on it to make it happen ….
    Will wait for next Blog dear…

  9. Amazing. Normally I do not read blogs. but I was not able to stop reading once I started. the pictures are breath taking. Keep it up. Will wait for more posts from you.

  10. Ony one word – WOW…!! Splendid & Superb bro…very well written and so much inspiring. By writing this blog, you made it very simple for the ones who wants or will be planning to go for EBC.
    Keep it up buddy….Waiting for your next blog…way to go ahead …Kudos!!

  11. It’s very well written and very useful for cheap buggers like me .And I am amazed that you spend 35000 only for this trip way to go but there is one thing I would say “where there is a will there is way”

  12. You are first person from my contact who were finished mount Everest base camp. It has been huge inspiration for me to dream mount Everest and Chase it.

  13. I have just finished reading the article you wrote. While much has been written on this topic, your article expresses both the positive and negative aspects of this, without taking an emotional stance on either side of the issue. Kudos! And keep them coming!

  14. Every well written, indeed it’s a difficult and challenging trek and at the same time you experience the untouched beauty of Himalaya. All the best for your new journey!!! Looking forward to reading your upcoming blogs…

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