Everest Base Camp Trek from India(INR 35000 – 16 Days)

The Everest Base Camp (EBC) trek is no joke, at least not in the usual sense. Just because you’re not climbing Mount Everest’s summit, don’t assume that the trek to EBC is an easy task. It’s so tough that you may sometimes question your sanity and wonder why you ever decided to do it. Yet, at the same time, you’re surrounded by such stunning scenery that it takes your breath away.

It changes from lush green farmland, dense forest, and crystal clear water rivers to barren land as you climb higher – then you realize it was a stupendous decision. It’s one of the hardest physical and mental challenges you will ever face in your life but on reaching base camp, will turn into a gratifying moment.

Mt Everest (8848 m) as seen from Kala Pathar

It all started somewhere in mid-Jan 16 when I started planning for the Everest base camp trek. All the tour packages were highly overpriced (around INR 70,000- 90,000). Eventually, I decided to do the trek unaided.

I started exploring all the do about’s for the trek. After a lot of Google searching, I finally made my itinerary for the trip and started buying all the necessary gears required for the trek. Also, a prior booking of flight is needed from Kathmandu to Lukla. The actual trekking starts from Lukla airport. For flight booking visit Tara Air.

As the trek is not an easy undertaking, you need to keep yourself physically fit. I started cycling to the office, ran into a few marathons and trekked a few small peaks of Maharashtra in order to build up good stamina.

7th April 

Finally, the day arrived and I along with my 3 friends was ready to depart for one of the most adventurous trips of our life. We took a flight from Pune to Delhi and then a train from Delhi to Gorakhpur. For train availability check IRCTC.

Gorakhpur railway station

The platform at Gorakhpur is the longest platform in the world. From Gorakhpur, the cheapest way to reach Sonauli border is to catch a local to Nautanwa and then a shared auto to Sonauli. Sonauli is the India/Nepal border crossing. After crossing the border, firstly we exchanged our INR to NPR and then took a taxi to reach Kathmandu. It’s about 4-5 hour drive from the border.

Sanouli border crossing

INR to NPR

KATHMANDU

How best to describe this crazy city? Chaotic, dirty, loud—yet undeniably beautiful in its way. We stayed in the Thamel neighbourhood of Kathmandu, a bustling and popular spot for backpackers. The area is alive with activity, filled with trekkers preparing for their Himalayan adventures. It’s a mix of vibrant energy and a raw, gritty charm that makes the city so unique.

This is a great place to buy trekking gear at very cheap prices. Experience nightlife in Thamel as there are a hell lot of pubs and bars, almost the same kind of feeling you experience in Goa. 

Cute kid of Nepal

Places of Interest

Pashupatinath Temple, Thamel Chowk, Durbar square, Boudhanath stupa.

Durbar Square

Everest Base Camp Trek Journey

Day 1 – Kathmandu-Lukla-chumoa(2650m)

The actual Everest Base Camp trek begins at Lukla, after a flight into one of the world’s most dangerous airports. Departing from Kathmandu airport, you’ll board an early morning flight to Lukla. The plane is small, with seating for as few as 16 passengers, and is one of the scariest flights you’ll ever experience.

However, the pilots, with their years of experience, put you at ease—especially when you see them casually snacking on chakna during the flight, which somehow made me feel more comfortable. If you can, sit on the left side of the plane for spectacular views of the Himalayas. It was the most beautiful scenery I’ve ever seen from the air.

Himalayan range as seen from Flight

After a 40-minute flight, we landed at Lukla airport -world’s most dangerous airport. The runway is a mere 500 meters long and is built on a slant to help slow on landing and speed up on take off. The end of the runway is either a cliff or a mountainside.

Kathmandu-Lukla Tara Air Flight

Lukla airport (2845m) and Runway is 527 m

After exploring Lukla for a couple of hours, we headed for Phakding. It takes around 2-3 hours to reach Phakding and the trail is mostly downhill. We were enriched with some breathtaking views all along the trail which added to our excitement and apparently, we decided to trek further.

Sometimes earning is tough

Beautiful Dudh Koshi River Everest Base Camp Trek

After trekking for about an hour, we reached Chumoa where you need to obtain a mandatory Trekkers’ Information Management Systems (TIMS card). The guy working at the TIMS office was very friendly and he suggested we to stay at his lodge as it already started getting darker.

If you need more info you can refer to Trekker’s Information Management System website.

One of the many suspension bridges en-route Everest Base Camp Trek

Day 2 – Chumoa to Namche Bazaar(3440 m)~5-6 hours of hiking

After having breakfast we headed for Namche. Near about 20 min walk from Chumoa, we arrived at Sagarmatha National Park entrance permit office from where you need to obtain permits to go further beyond.

For more details on entry fees, you can refer official tourism website for Nepal.

Around 800 meters of elevation gain, it is one of the steepest days. Crossing the high suspension bridges is exhilarating. Those who have watched the 2015 Everest movie will recognize these suspension bridges. It is the higher of the two bridges that is operational.

The higher suspension bridge is operational

On the way to Namche Bazaar, we got to witness the first view of the highest physical structure on planet earth-Mt. Everest (8848m)

Mt Everest (8848 meter) -Highest physical structure on planet earth

After a tiring 2 hours of only uphill trek, we finally made it to Namche Bazaar, one of the larger villages in the Khumbu region. It’s where trekkers and tourists refuel and get last-minute gear.

Trekkers have their own ways to enjoy at Everest Base Camp Trek 

For the first time, hikers experience an altitude of around 10000 feet. It is highly advised to spend a rest day here to acclimatize our body for such high altitude. Avoiding acclimatization may lead to signs of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) like dizziness, nausea, breathing problems, headache or fatigue.

Also, you would hear from many people to hike high, and sleep low, which means you hike to a higher elevation, and then return to sleep at a lower one.

An evening view of Namche Bazaar on Everest Base Camp Trek

Lodge dining room with Chimney  

Day 3 – Namche Bazaar to Tengboche (3860 m)~4-5 hours of hiking

As we were short of days for the whole trek, we skipped the rest day and headed for Tengboche the following morning. The first half of the walk is fairly simple. On the way you come across superb views of Mt. Nuptse, Mt. Lhotse, Mt. Ama Dablam and close-up view of Thamserku. After a tiring hike of 4-5 hours finally, we made it to Tengboche.

 In route to Tengboche on Everest Base Camp Trek route

Salute to this guy, almost 150 kg at back on such a terrain and low altitude

Tengboche is a midway station on the trail to the base camp. In the village is an important Buddhist monastery – Tengboche Monastery, which is the largest gompa in the Khumbu region. Lodge stay at Tengboche was awesome as the owner’s son was a huge Bollywood fan and he was very happy to serve us. Charging a phone here would cost around 200 bucks and he didn’t ask for a single penny. Bhakthi (owner’s son)-we loved your kind nature boy and will remember you for your entire life.

Best location to relax and tea could be icing on the cake

Day 4 -Tengboche to Pheriche (4243m)~ 4-5 hours of hiking

Now as we proceeded further up the trail, grassy lands started turning into barren land with snow everywhere. Trekking now starts becoming more tougher and tougher with decreasing oxygen levels. Our plan for today was to make it to Lobuche but with plummeting strength levels we decided to hang our boots at Pheriche itself.

Sit back and relax Everest Base Camp Trek

It was an amazing evening at Pheriche as we experienced the first snowfall of our trek and indeed I saw the first of my life.

Snow all around at Pheriche on Everest Base Camp Trek

Day 5 – Pheriche to Lobuche  (5164 m)~4-5 hours of trekking

Trek from Pheriche to Lobuche is not that steep but high altitude and low oxygen start taking a toll on your body. I felt a severe headache and as a safety measure took Diamox  – a medicine to diagnose from altitude sickness. After a tough hike for about 4 hours, we reached Lobuche.

You make friends all the way on Everest Base Camp Trek

Day 6 – Lobuche to Gorakshep(5164m) and evening hike to Kalapathar (5545 m)

We started very early in the morning as it was a long trekking day going ahead. After hiking for 2 hours we arrived at Gorakshep. Reaching Gorakshep is an achievement in itself. It’s the last village before base camp, where you can find lodges to stay. A Dal Bhat here would cost around 750 NPR and a water bottle would be around 300 NPR. The only reason is that all raw materials are brought here by sherpas on their back, who walk for days to reach here.

A milk tea for 150 bucks only at Gorakshep on the Everest Base Camp Trek route

Gorakshep – last village before Everest Base Camp

After having breakfast, we decided to hike to Kalapathar. Kalapathar is the highest peak you can scale on an Everest base camp trek. From Kalapathar’s top, you can witness a stunning view of the sunset, when plummeting sun rays fall on the Everest summit giving it an orange colour.

But you need to be lucky for such a view and pray for the weather to be clear which was not in our case. It was much to my disappointment after trekking so hard for 4 hours. I decided to trek Kalapathar again early morning to have a view of sunrise.

Kalapathar Top -5545 meter

Day 7 – Hike to Kalapathar (5545m) and then to Everest Base Camp (5348m)

We started around 4 am carrying the head torch with us. It was extremely dark and chilly out there. After a difficult 3 hours of trek all uphill, we reached the top of Kalapathar. It was an astonishing view of Everest from there and cannot be described in words. People won’t think of doing Kalapathar once as it’s that tough at such an altitude and depleting oxygen level and doing it twice made me feel gigantic.

Mt Everest (8848 m) as seen from Kalapathar

After coming back from Kala Patthar, it was time to fulfil one of my dreams, a final stretch from Gorakshep to Everest Base camp. We started somewhere around 11 and made it to base camp around 1:30. A scream of relief came out. We couldn’t believe we finally made it. We were so proud of what we had accomplished. Our reaching to Everest base camp dream finally came true.

Yellow specks appeared on the horizon, which were the climber’s tents who were attempting to summit this year. They stay here at base camp for around 6 weeks to acclimatize to such a high altitude.

Everest Base Camp

At Everest Base Camp, we came across a few Indian Army tents, where around 15 soldiers were preparing for their summit attempt that year. Meeting them was one of the best experiences of my life. They generously invited us for lunch in their tents, and to our delight, we got to enjoy chapati after such a long time. They also offered us chocolates, juice, biscuits, and even some medicines.

The time spent with the army was incredible, and after wishing them the best of luck for their summit, we started our trek back towards Gorakshep. It was a memorable encounter that added an unexpected warmth to the cold, rugged environment of Everest Base Camp.

With Indian army at Everest Base Camp

Day 8 – Gorakshep to Dzongla (4843 m)~6-7 hours trek

Most trekkers, after reaching Everest Base Camp, retrace their steps along the same trail back to Lukla. However, we decided to take on one of the passes—Chola Pass—which leads further west to Gokyo. After a five-hour trek, we arrived in Dzongla. It’s a very simple place, nothing more than a yak grazing spot with just two small lodges and limited camping facilities.

Despite the sparse amenities, the surrounding views were absolutely breathtaking. The remote, serene beauty of the landscape made the challenging journey even more rewarding.

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Dzongla at an altitude of 4843 meter

Day 9 -Dzongla -Chola Pass to Dragnag (5025 m)~ 5-6 hrs trek

Early the next morning, we woke up to find Dzongla completely covered in snow—not exactly ideal conditions for crossing Cho La Pass. I felt a bit nervous, knowing that high mountain passes are not to be taken lightly. At 5,420 meters, the Cho La Pass is challenging even in good weather, and it can become extremely dangerous when conditions are poor. But with no other option, we pressed on with our journey.

After a strenuous climb up a massive mountain, we finally reached the giant glacier at the pass. The sun gleamed off the snow and ice, creating an astonishingly beautiful view. It was a surreal and unforgettable moment, standing there surrounded by the sheer majesty of the Himalayas.

Chola Pass (5420 meters)

We trekked further down west for about an hour and a half and reached Dragnag. Our plan for today was to make it to Gokyo but the weather had some other thoughts. It started snowing heavily and we had to end our day at a lodge in Dragnag.

In route Chola Pass on Everest Base Camp Trek

Snowfall at Dragnag

Day 10- Dragnag to Gokyo(4750m) and then to Phortse Thanga(3600m)~8-10 hours

We started early morning as we wanted to trek the mountain Gokyo Ri. The trail from Dragnag to Gokyo is very confusing and we lost our way. Also, there was no one around whom we could ask for the correct trail. Generally, these passes are offbeat and you find fewer trekkers, porters, and guides compared to the main routes.

The lost trail didn’t lead to any disappointment as we were blessed with some incredible views of sunrise on snow-capped mountains. Later, when I checked on GMaps to find out where exactly we were lost, I was amazed to see that it was somewhere close to China border. Maybe just a few mountains were separating Nepal and China border there.

Gokyo route Everest Base Camp trek

After getting lost for around three hours, we finally found the correct trail leading to Gokyo. Along the way, some of the mountains were downright terrifying, with massive stones tumbling down continuously. Fortunately, we made it through unscathed and eventually reached Gokyo.

Upon arrival, we were greeted by the breathtaking sight of Gokyo Lake—a truly splendid view. Unfortunately, due to the time we lost earlier, we couldn’t make it to Gokyo Ri, but the journey itself and the lake’s beauty made it all worthwhile.

 Gokyo Lake-Water is so crystal clear

Gokyo Lake Everest Base Camp Trek

After experiencing the stunning and thrilling views at Gokyo, it was time to begin our descent back to Lukla with just two days left. We didn’t have a set itinerary for how long the descent would take—we just wanted to push ourselves as much as possible. The idea was to make the most of our remaining time, letting the adventure guide us as we navigated the trails, fueled by the sense of accomplishment and awe from our trek.

Day 11 – Phortse Thanga to Chumoa ~5-6 hours of trekking

The walks were becoming more enjoyable with every inch we were descending. It was much warmer and oxygen level was up to necessity. Also after trekking so hard at such an altitude, trekking down seems to be a piece of cake.

Cute Nepali Kids on Everest Base Camp Trek

Day 12 – Chumoa to Lukla ~5-6 hours of trekking

It was the last day of our trekking. We were enjoying every moment on the trail and feeling accomplished. The fatigue, headaches and general feeling of being unwell were all a past.

That’s how different is life for some kids

Day 13 -Lukla to Kathmandu

We were up early morning and waited at the airport. After a security check, we boarded to same exciting Tara Airways Flight. And 45 minutes later, we were back in Kathmandu, bringing back with us triumphant moments and photographic memories.

Reaching Everest Base Camp will forever be one of the greatest achievements of my life

Everest Base Camp Trek Route

Do you have a place in mind that you visited that was so beautiful ?? For me, it’s the Himalayas. Not many people can say that they have stood halfway towards the top of the world and if I can do it, maybe you can. The Everest Base Camp trek is incredible and the experience of a lifetime. I recommend it to anyone looking to challenge themselves physically and mentally.

Do follow me on Instagram as I am regularly posting travel posts and stories over there. Also, you can message me on Instagram if you want to join me on my next trip.

Are you looking for some essential travel gear? Check out my post on What’s in my Backpack.

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